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Faster refresh rate, sharper images, deeper blacks, 3D looks smoother.

They aren't as good in brighter, well lit rooms, they tend to have a glare unless a coating was applied at the factory, if you are retarded and leave an image on for a week it can burn in. If you play nothing bit video games, stick with the LED.

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I don't use mine for a bed either, but it's nearly impossible to sit in the center without hating your life. The cup holders are about the only good thing about it. My old one was less of a piece of shit, surprisingly.

It doesn't matter though, I'm pissed now so I'm going all out on the next one I get.

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Faster refresh rate, sharper images, deeper blacks, 3D looks smoother.

They aren't as good in brighter, well lit rooms, they tend to have a glare unless a coating was applied at the factory, if you are retarded and leave an image on for a week it can burn in. If you play nothing bit video games, stick with the LED.

Axlisold pretty much nailed it........but here is what I noticed when I was shopping for my HD TV and I spent a lot of time doing side by side comparisons..

1. Faster refresh rate so you don't get the motion smearing you can get with LED TV's...you can really notice this with sports..during football check out the grass when a play is run. with a LED the grass becomes a big green smear while with Plasma it stays clear and the grass stays defined.

2. Much better black levels and no backlight bleeding like LED TV's....also much better gray scale shading details during dark scenes and no black crush that you can get with some LED's with obscures detail.

3. More natural colors as the picture is not as bright so colors don't get over saturated.

4. Sharper picture then LED TV's

I looked at the best LED TV's and also compared the Sanyo and Panasonic plasma's and I thought the both the Samsung and Panasonic plasmas had noticeably better picture then the Sony, Samsung, Vizio, and Sharp top shelf LED TV's...and I prefered the Panasonic over the Samsung by a small margin but you can't go wrong with either of those plasma's.........

And I agree with Axlis old in that if you play a lot of video games stick with an LED as you can get some Image retention if you leave static images on the screen for several hours. It will go away as you watch video content but some find this objectionable...as far as burn in is concerned it is almost impossible to do this with a Samsung or Panasonic plasma unless you leave a static image on the screen for several weeks....

As far as 4K TV's are concerned personally I would not wait as I think it will be 5-6 years before they are affordable and there is any appreciable content to watch on them........

Edited by classicrawker
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Faster refresh rate, sharper images, deeper blacks, 3D looks smoother.

They aren't as good in brighter, well lit rooms, they tend to have a glare unless a coating was applied at the factory, if you are retarded and leave an image on for a week it can burn in. If you play nothing bit video games, stick with the LED.

Axlisold pretty much nailed it........but here is what I noticed when I was shopping for my HD TV and I spent a lot of time doing side by side comparisons..

1. Faster refresh rate so you don't get the motion smearing you can get with LED TV's...you can really notice this with sports..during football check out the grass when a play is run. with a LED the grass becomes a big green smear while with Plasma it stays clear and the grass stays defined.

2. Much better black levels and no backlight bleeding like LED TV's....also much better gray scale shading details during dark scenes and no black crush that you can get with some LED's with obscures detail.

3. More natural colors as the picture is not as bright so colors don't get over saturated.

4. Sharper picture then LED TV's

I looked at the best LED TV's and also compared the Sanyo and Panasonic plasma's and I thought the both the Samsung and Panasonic plasmas had noticeably better picture then the Sony, Samsung, Vizio, and Sharp top shelf LED TV's...and I prefered the Panasonic over the Samsung by a small margin but you can't go wrong with either of those plasma's.........

And I agree with Axlis old in that if you play a lot of video games stick with an LED as you can get some Image retention if you leave static images on the screen for several hours. It will go away as you watch video content but some find this objectionable...as far as burn in is concerned it is almost impossible to do this with a Samsung or Panasonic plasma unless you leave a static image on the screen for several weeks....

As far as 4K TV's are concerned personally I would not wait as I think it will be 5-6 years before they are affordable and there is any appreciable content to watch on them........

Thanks for the info.

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Could i connect my hifi speakers as my front left and front right? They have 4 wires coming out though hf and lf what does that mean?

Without seeing it I couldn't really tell you, I haven't thought about speaker wiring in a while. It could be for bi-amping, in which case juet pick a.pair. I dunno, ask someone who knows more than me I guess.

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Could i connect my hifi speakers as my front left and front right? They have 4 wires coming out though hf and lf what does that mean?

Without seeing it I couldn't really tell you, I haven't thought about speaker wiring in a while. It could be for bi-amping, in which case juet pick a.pair. I dunno, ask someone who knows more than me I guess.

I assume he has terminals like these:

silverline-sonata-binding-posts.jpg

I usually connect to the bottom terminals (unless the speaker manufacturer suggests otherwise), but I'm not sure it makes a big difference. The brass plate you see connecting the upper and lower terminals should be left in unless you have bi-wire cable (which will have four separate banana plugs or spades to plug one into each terminal). That is generally considered superior, but if you don't have bi-wire cables I would ditch the plates and make a pair of jumper cables out of some decent speaker cable. I was surprised how much difference it made when I did that.

It would then look like this:

custom-jumper-1-150.jpg

Most people will tell you those plates are junk and I'd tend to agree.

Edited by KBear
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Could i connect my hifi speakers as my front left and front right? They have 4 wires coming out though hf and lf what does that mean?

Without seeing it I couldn't really tell you, I haven't thought about speaker wiring in a while. It could be for bi-amping, in which case juet pick a.pair. I dunno, ask someone who knows more than me I guess.

I assume he has terminals like these:

silverline-sonata-binding-posts.jpg

I usually connect to the bottom terminals (unless the speaker manufacturer suggests otherwise), but I'm not sure it makes a big difference. The brass plate you see connecting the upper and lower terminals should be left in unless you have bi-wire cable (which will have four separate banana plugs or spades to plug one into each terminal). That is generally considered superior, but if you don't have bi-wire cables I would ditch the plates and make a pair of jumper cables out of some decent speaker cable. I was surprised how much difference it made when I did that.

It would then look like this:

custom-jumper-1-150.jpg

Most people will tell you those plates are junk and I'd tend to agree.

With all due respect KBear I an an engineer at an audio company and I have my doubts that going from those plates to speaker wire jumpers will have much if any difference in audio quality as it is such a short distance for the signal to travel...... :shrugs: ..now if you talking long runs of speaker cable there can be a difference due to the capacitance of the speker wire but a couple of inches I don't think so........I think it most likely is a placebo effect.

Here is a great thread where this issue is discussed

http://www.whathifi.com/forum/hi-fi/speaker-jumpers-or-bi-wire?page=4

Also got this from another audiophile forum and agree 100%

Here are some reasons why the jumpers are great as they are:

1. They are very heavy gauge (over 10 gauge, usually) and thus offer very low resistance.

2. The connection is sandwiched between two conductive flat surfaces and offer very low resistance at the connection (weld) point.

3. The flat design running parallel edgewise to each other greatly reduced bot inductance and ccapcitance.

4. Their very short length (usually less than 2 inches) reduces any LCR (inductance, capacitance and resistance) issues inherent in all conductors, making the affects of LCR so small they have no functional effect.

But as long as you feel it made an improvement then that is all that really matters to you............ :shrugs:

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Could i connect my hifi speakers as my front left and front right? They have 4 wires coming out though hf and lf what does that mean?

Without seeing it I couldn't really tell you, I haven't thought about speaker wiring in a while. It could be for bi-amping, in which case juet pick a.pair. I dunno, ask someone who knows more than me I guess.

I assume he has terminals like these:

silverline-sonata-binding-posts.jpg

I usually connect to the bottom terminals (unless the speaker manufacturer suggests otherwise), but I'm not sure it makes a big difference. The brass plate you see connecting the upper and lower terminals should be left in unless you have bi-wire cable (which will have four separate banana plugs or spades to plug one into each terminal). That is generally considered superior, but if you don't have bi-wire cables I would ditch the plates and make a pair of jumper cables out of some decent speaker cable. I was surprised how much difference it made when I did that.

It would then look like this:

custom-jumper-1-150.jpg

Most people will tell you those plates are junk and I'd tend to agree.

With all due respect KBear I an an engineer at an audio company and I have my doubts that going from those plates to speaker wire jumpers will have much if any difference in audio quality as it is such a short distance for the signal to travel...... :shrugs: ..now if you talking long runs of speaker cable there can be a difference due to the capacitance of the speker wire but a couple of inches I don't think so........I think it most likely is a placebo effect.

Here is a great thread where this issue is discussed

http://www.whathifi....-bi-wire?page=4

Also got this from another audiophile forum and agree 100%

Here are some reasons why the jumpers are great as they are:

1. They are very heavy gauge (over 10 gauge, usually) and thus offer very low resistance.

2. The connection is sandwiched between two conductive flat surfaces and offer very low resistance at the connection (weld) point.

3. The flat design running parallel edgewise to each other greatly reduced bot inductance and ccapcitance.

4. Their very short length (usually less than 2 inches) reduces any LCR (inductance, capacitance and resistance) issues inherent in all conductors, making the affects of LCR so small they have no functional effect.

But as long as you feel it made an improvement then that is all that really matters to you............ :shrugs:

Hey, it could very well be a placebo effect. I won't disregard that possibility. I'm not going to pretend to know more about the science of audio than I actually do, but I'm aware of cable properties (capacitance, inductance, and resistance) and the effect they generally have on the signal passing through them. Is that the entire story though?

Science does not give us all the answers. Products such as tube amps and turntables test poorly compared to solid state amps and CD players, but in many cases they sound better. Speakers that measure horribly can sound better than those that do not. There are things we don't fully grasp yet (although theories exist to explain everything) and so I try to keep and open mind, and really, at the end of the day you are going to have to listen and judge things by ear anyways. But as far as I'm concerned, when you change something in the path of the signal you have changed the circuit, and that's going to affect the signal on some level (even if it's negligible).

It's not like I'm recommending people go out and buy some overpriced audio product. Just cut and strip some extra speaker cable and see if that makes a difference. If it doesn't then go back to the brass plates. It is of no consequence to me, just something to try if anyone cares to do so.

Edited by KBear
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No kbear it is just 4 normal wire inputs nothing like the picture you posted. Regarding my reciever it does not show on the display the dts-hd sign even though i have a blu ray in that is playing 5.1 dts-hd as the films soundtrack, it just shows the dolby pro logic II(x). Are my doing something wrong?

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No kbear it is just 4 normal wire inputs nothing like the picture you posted. Regarding my reciever it does not show on the display the dts-hd sign even though i have a blu ray in that is playing 5.1 dts-hd as the films soundtrack, it just shows the dolby pro logic II(x). Are my doing something wrong?

Is this on the speaker or receiver end? I thought you meant speaker initially but now I think you mean receiver.

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Could i connect my hifi speakers as my front left and front right? They have 4 wires coming out though hf and lf what does that mean?

Without seeing it I couldn't really tell you, I haven't thought about speaker wiring in a while. It could be for bi-amping, in which case juet pick a.pair. I dunno, ask someone who knows more than me I guess.

I assume he has terminals like these:

silverline-sonata-binding-posts.jpg

I usually connect to the bottom terminals (unless the speaker manufacturer suggests otherwise), but I'm not sure it makes a big difference. The brass plate you see connecting the upper and lower terminals should be left in unless you have bi-wire cable (which will have four separate banana plugs or spades to plug one into each terminal). That is generally considered superior, but if you don't have bi-wire cables I would ditch the plates and make a pair of jumper cables out of some decent speaker cable. I was surprised how much difference it made when I did that.

It would then look like this:

custom-jumper-1-150.jpg

Most people will tell you those plates are junk and I'd tend to agree.

With all due respect KBear I an an engineer at an audio company and I have my doubts that going from those plates to speaker wire jumpers will have much if any difference in audio quality as it is such a short distance for the signal to travel...... :shrugs: ..now if you talking long runs of speaker cable there can be a difference due to the capacitance of the speker wire but a couple of inches I don't think so........I think it most likely is a placebo effect.

Here is a great thread where this issue is discussed

http://www.whathifi....-bi-wire?page=4

Also got this from another audiophile forum and agree 100%

Here are some reasons why the jumpers are great as they are:

1. They are very heavy gauge (over 10 gauge, usually) and thus offer very low resistance.

2. The connection is sandwiched between two conductive flat surfaces and offer very low resistance at the connection (weld) point.

3. The flat design running parallel edgewise to each other greatly reduced bot inductance and ccapcitance.

4. Their very short length (usually less than 2 inches) reduces any LCR (inductance, capacitance and resistance) issues inherent in all conductors, making the affects of LCR so small they have no functional effect.

But as long as you feel it made an improvement then that is all that really matters to you............ :shrugs:

Hey, it could very well be a placebo effect. I won't disregard that possibility. I'm not going to pretend to know more about the science of audio than I actually do, but I'm aware of cable properties (capacitance, inductance, and resistance) and the effect they generally have on the signal passing through them. Is that the entire story though?

Science does not give us all the answers. Products such as tube amps and turntables test poorly compared to solid state amps and CD players, but in many cases they sound better. Speakers that measure horribly can sound better than those that do not. There are things we don't fully grasp yet (although theories exist to explain everything) and so I try to keep and open mind, and really, at the end of the day you are going to have to listen and judge things by ear anyways. But as far as I'm concerned, when you change something in the path of the signal you have changed the circuit, and that's going to affect the signal on some level (even if it's negligible).

It's not like I'm recommending people go out and buy some overpriced audio product. Just cut and strip some extra speaker cable and see if that makes a difference. If it doesn't then go back to the brass plates. It is of no consequence to me, just something to try if anyone cares to do so.

Don't take it so personally mate I was not attacking you just sharing my experience as I am in the business...

Yes you are correct that science can't always quantify performance but based on my engineering knowledge and experience going from the jumpers to the cables will not make much of a difference if any as the plates are so short and a heavy guage the impedance (capacitance and inductance which impacts audio signals) of them is minimal to be unmeasurable. It would be like adding 2 inchs of trace to a pcb in a circuit which I can assure you will have little effect on the overall circuit performance unless you talking very high frequency signals.....If you were to view the audio signals on a scope at both ends of the bridging plate it would look virtually identical.

Like I said as long as you are happy with the change that is all that matters but I wanted to explain why changing from the plates to cables most likely does not improve the audio quality.

Edited by classicrawker
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No kbear it is just 4 normal wire inputs nothing like the picture you posted. Regarding my reciever it does not show on the display the dts-hd sign even though i have a blu ray in that is playing 5.1 dts-hd as the films soundtrack, it just shows the dolby pro logic II(x). Are my doing something wrong?

There might be a bitton on your remote that says stereo enhancer or something, and then near it should be another button that says straight or direct or something to that respect. Basically you want to get away from artifical surround and have raw audio.

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