DieselDaisy Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Those machine washable ones are ghastly. £25 for a jacket. You can stick it in your bloody washing machine. A shapeless mass. I have got a fairly good slim fitting Italian, not tailoured but about as good you can get without being tailoured. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lithium Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 What's your suit size, Lith? 48 extra short with 28W trousers? I had time to go into a store and try a few jackets today after class. I'm around a 50c (the sleeves and the jacket itself needs to be shortened). I'll try on trousers this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streak Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 I'm thinking about buying a few more suits. What's the latest trend in suits? I don't particularly like the "tight fitting" look. They will be worn in a business/professional setting.Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated! Try to keep the price tag under the $500 range per suit. Under $500? The making of a suit is a really intricate procedure. Even when it's 'off the rack' a good suit has more work inside than what is apparent from the outside. And a suit is something that shouldn't be made from crap fabrics considering how often it is worn. It's one of those few items that you need to invest in quality and you will be rewarded day in day out for that investment.you nailed itI wish I could find a cheap tailor here, however a large suit reatiler aren;t going to start offering a bespoke service, very cheap tooIt's one of those things where if you have very 'standard' body measurements that fit really close to the concept of what the garment industry thinks is 'standard' then you can buy a suit from an 'off the rack' retailer and if the fabrics used are good quality, then it will be a good suit, but not necessarily a great suit. The reality is that most people don't fit the 'standard' measurements. Whether it be body length or the upper/lower body ratio, most people end up with something not quite fitting right. And then there's the factor that off the rack suits don't use the same techniques in making it that a bespoke tailor uses. A 'great' suit is one that fits really well and wears really well over time. To achieve that a mind blowing number of hand stitching goes into the inside of the suit, like this:These stitches are applied to the whole front of the jacket with the collar having these stitches about a quarter of the size (and therefore 4 times the work). It keeps the structure of the suit in good shape for many, many wears. A mass made 'off the rack' suit doesn't have any of this hand stitching and as a result you get sagging and sloppiness after multiple wears. Unfortunately the mass producers haven't been able to make machines that recreate those hand stitches.It is just the amount of money really, but lately I think prices have come down...I wouldn't mind paying a tailor here to take my measurements, then order online and get it sent to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redhead74 Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 I'm thinking about buying a few more suits. What's the latest trend in suits? I don't particularly like the "tight fitting" look. They will be worn in a business/professional setting.Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated! Try to keep the price tag under the $500 range per suit. Under $500? The making of a suit is a really intricate procedure. Even when it's 'off the rack' a good suit has more work inside than what is apparent from the outside. And a suit is something that shouldn't be made from crap fabrics considering how often it is worn. It's one of those few items that you need to invest in quality and you will be rewarded day in day out for that investment.you nailed itI wish I could find a cheap tailor here, however a large suit reatiler aren;t going to start offering a bespoke service, very cheap tooIt's one of those things where if you have very 'standard' body measurements that fit really close to the concept of what the garment industry thinks is 'standard' then you can buy a suit from an 'off the rack' retailer and if the fabrics used are good quality, then it will be a good suit, but not necessarily a great suit. The reality is that most people don't fit the 'standard' measurements. Whether it be body length or the upper/lower body ratio, most people end up with something not quite fitting right. And then there's the factor that off the rack suits don't use the same techniques in making it that a bespoke tailor uses. A 'great' suit is one that fits really well and wears really well over time. To achieve that a mind blowing number of hand stitching goes into the inside of the suit, like this:These stitches are applied to the whole front of the jacket with the collar having these stitches about a quarter of the size (and therefore 4 times the work). It keeps the structure of the suit in good shape for many, many wears. A mass made 'off the rack' suit doesn't have any of this hand stitching and as a result you get sagging and sloppiness after multiple wears. Unfortunately the mass producers haven't been able to make machines that recreate those hand stitches.It is just the amount of money really, but lately I think prices have come down...I wouldn't mind paying a tailor here to take my measurements, then order online and get it sent to meThat's really tricky because in theory it works but in reality measurements alone aren't what creates the quality of the finished product. When I make a wedding dress I take a girls measurements, and I think we get about 80-85% of the way there provided she doesn't lose weight in the meantime. Even if her measurements are exactly the same there are always little adjustments to be made mostly due to the behaviour of the fabric, and the subtle body contours that measurements can't anticipate. This is perhaps not so severe with a tailored suit considering it's not as structured or as fitted as a wedding gown, but they are still factors that are vital to a well fitting garment. So you might be OK in terms of fit provided your measurements are relatively proportional........but:Order something online and you have no control over the quality of the fabric. Always expect an inferior quality of fabric than is specified. And then take it to a dry cleaner to be properly pressed so that the packing creases and crushing are removed. Don't try it on until it's been pressed! You're not looking at the full product until it's been pressed properly. I'd love to know how good a service like this is. I'm really curious now....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redhead74 Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 What's your suit size, Lith? 48 extra short with 28W trousers? I had time to go into a store and try a few jackets today after class. I'm around a 50c (the sleeves and the jacket itself needs to be shortened). I'll try on trousers this weekend.The general rule of thumb is never to shorten the body of a jacket more than 1". If you do you fuck with the proportion of the pockets to the hem. And the armscye will also be out of proportion. You'd have to pay a good tailor to do it well in which case you may as well shop for an off the rack brand that caters to various lengths. Shortening the body is not the same as shortening a sleeve or a trouser leg. Just find a ready made suit that caters to your length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streak Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Redhead74 can you do suits? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lithium Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 What's your suit size, Lith? 48 extra short with 28W trousers? I had time to go into a store and try a few jackets today after class. I'm around a 50c (the sleeves and the jacket itself needs to be shortened). I'll try on trousers this weekend.The general rule of thumb is never to shorten the body of a jacket more than 1". If you do you fuck with the proportion of the pockets to the hem. And the armscye will also be out of proportion. You'd have to pay a good tailor to do it well in which case you may as well shop for an off the rack brand that caters to various lengths. Shortening the body is not the same as shortening a sleeve or a trouser leg. Just find a ready made suit that caters to your length.Good thing the guy at the store only wanted to shorten it 1-2cm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redhead74 Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Redhead74 can you do suits?I can but I don't have anywhere near the experience with tailoring sewing techniques as I do with dressmaking. I love working with woollen fabrics though, they're much more manageable than most silks. But I love the challenge of mastering any fabric. I considered doing tailoring but there's much more business and money in bridal now that the garment industries in the western world have been destroyed by globalisation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace Nova Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 (edited) I'm thinking about buying a few more suits. What's the latest trend in suits? I don't particularly like the "tight fitting" look. They will be worn in a business/professional setting.Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated! Try to keep the price tag under the $500 range per suit. Under $500? The making of a suit is a really intricate procedure. Even when it's 'off the rack' a good suit has more work inside than what is apparent from the outside. And a suit is something that shouldn't be made from crap fabrics considering how often it is worn. It's one of those few items that you need to invest in quality and you will be rewarded day in day out for that investment.you nailed itI wish I could find a cheap tailor here, however a large suit reatiler aren;t going to start offering a bespoke service, very cheap tooIt's one of those things where if you have very 'standard' body measurements that fit really close to the concept of what the garment industry thinks is 'standard' then you can buy a suit from an 'off the rack' retailer and if the fabrics used are good quality, then it will be a good suit, but not necessarily a great suit. The reality is that most people don't fit the 'standard' measurements. Whether it be body length or the upper/lower body ratio, most people end up with something not quite fitting right. And then there's the factor that off the rack suits don't use the same techniques in making it that a bespoke tailor uses. A 'great' suit is one that fits really well and wears really well over time. To achieve that a mind blowing number of hand stitching goes into the inside of the suit, like this:These stitches are applied to the whole front of the jacket with the collar having these stitches about a quarter of the size (and therefore 4 times the work). It keeps the structure of the suit in good shape for many, many wears. A mass made 'off the rack' suit doesn't have any of this hand stitching and as a result you get sagging and sloppiness after multiple wears. Unfortunately the mass producers haven't been able to make machines that recreate those hand stitches.Every suit I've ever worn has been off the rack (and then slightly taylored/adjusted) and has fit like a glove. Yes, the taylors at the shops basically say I have a body made for suits. I don't wear them that often, maybe a few times a month (during the winter only...about 4 months in Florida weather) at the most. I still have 3 suits from 6-7 years ago that look brand new. Edited October 21, 2014 by Kasanova King Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Drama Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 Redhead74 can you do suits?I can but I don't have anywhere near the experience with tailoring sewing techniques as I do with dressmaking. I love working with woollen fabrics though, they're much more manageable than most silks. But I love the challenge of mastering any fabric. I considered doing tailoring but there's much more business and money in bridal now that the garment industries in the western world have been destroyed by globalisation.When you say you can as in you actually have or your experience with other things would lend you to thinking that you could do suits? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streak Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 Would you do one though Redhead? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redhead74 Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 Redhead74 can you do suits?I can but I don't have anywhere near the experience with tailoring sewing techniques as I do with dressmaking. I love working with woollen fabrics though, they're much more manageable than most silks. But I love the challenge of mastering any fabric. I considered doing tailoring but there's much more business and money in bridal now that the garment industries in the western world have been destroyed by globalisation.When you say you can as in you actually have or your experience with other things would lend you to thinking that you could do suits?I've made them for myself. I made an equestrian style riding jacket that was completely pad-stitched inside like the picture I posted and I did hand stitched buttonholes, instead of machine ones. It's made from a Scottish checked wool and every check matches on the seam lines and the head of the sleeve was hand shrunk. It took me a long time though. Would you do one though Redhead?I wouldn't for anyone else. It takes me a lot longer than an experienced tailor so it would end up either being a VERY expensive suit, or I would be working for probably less per day than the average Chinese garment maker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Len Cnut Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magisme Posted October 22, 2014 Author Share Posted October 22, 2014 How many of you will be cramming into the VW Bug? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Len Cnut Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 I think I'm gonna legally get my named to The Wallabee Champ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redhead74 Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 I love love love them Lennie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redhead74 Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 (edited) I really enjoyed this gentleman's look at the races on Tuesday. And I'm loving the guitar bag on the shoulder of his lady friend. They're both nutters and I love them for being so exuberant and un-boring. Edited November 5, 2014 by Redhead74 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Real McCoy Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magisme Posted November 6, 2014 Author Share Posted November 6, 2014 20% off the Billy Reid Bond Peacoat. Still like $570. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselDaisy Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 Dress to impress. That is Red's motto. It is impressive stuff when you think about. I cannot fathom how one would design such a costume. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redhead74 Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 20% off the Billy Reid Bond Peacoat. Still like $570. What? That's nothing. I have handbags that cost close to 4 times that. I should probably spend less on that kind of shit than I do but I always remember: #1, I don't have any kids. #2, I was in the Hermes store in Paris some years ago and saw a bag for sale for €93,000 and thinking that I should never feel guilty for purchasing the things I do that I really love because they're small fry compared to shit like that. At the end of the day, I love my stuff and I can afford it. When I have greater priorities in life I will do otherwise, but in the meantime.......I shop. And I love it. And I think you're in the same situation. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lithium Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 I got the charcoal Hugo Boss suit. I paid a little extra and they sent it to a proper tailor for me, so the fit is great. I'll get a new pair of shoes and a belt for the suit once my next paycheck arrives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Drama Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 Pics, babe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lithium Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 Maybe I'll take some when I get an occasion to wear it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magisme Posted November 7, 2014 Author Share Posted November 7, 2014 Maybe I'll take some when I get an occasion to wear it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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